Easing into the Cold Weather

No one wishes to hasten a return to the dark mornings, bitter winds and lashing snow that are regrettably attendant aspects of the New England winter. The biggest challenge for dressing this time of year is managing the wide temperature swings that can bring warm afternoons into chilly nights. Anyone with even a passing interest in clothes begins to long for their cold weather wardrobe. Winter - with no blossoming flowers, long evenings or al fresco dining to divert the mind - brings into focus what really matters: and that is the wearing of chunky, tactile fabrics. The winter clothes begin to call from the back of the wardrobe: cashmere, corduroys, flannels and tweeds.

Cashmere
If you want the best and only organic cashmere in the world, you need to go to Mongolia. Cashmere goats live in extremely cold and harsh climates, think -40 degrees winters that can last longer than most places in the world. To survive, Cashmere goats grow long, fine fibers to protect themselves, a third longer than other goats from other regions. Longer fibers equals stronger cashmere. Old school hand combing is the only cruelty free cashmere because shearing goats can be "very stressful" on these goats that have already endured such brutal winters. Even though it takes more time & effort to hand comb, this old-school approach is still the best thing for these goats and the fibers in our sweaters. The harsh geography of this area means that only a very limited number of goats are combed by hand every spring. To make an average-sized sweater, you will need wool from approximately 4 adult goats. Cashmere fibers are some of the only fibers in the world that are hollow. This means that the fiber is very good for blending with other materials, instantly making the material lighter and softer. Cashmere is such a coveted fabric because it is long-lasting and adaptability to temperature due to the high moisture content of the wool. In the winter it will keep you warm and insulated, yet it will ensure you stay cool in the summer.

Corduroys

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When it comes to casual winter tailoring, Corduroy is hard to beat. Corduroy is, in essence, a ridged form of velvet, with a “cord” or “wale”. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the "wale" (i.e. the number of ridges per inch). Both velvet and corduroy derive from fustian fabric. Fustian is a variety of heavy cloth woven from cotton, chiefly prepared for menswear found in the construction of trousers, jackets, casual shirts and suits. A pair of cords is a winter necessity. Wear with chunky knitwear or a tweed sportcoat and you have a foolproof cold-weather ensemble. Pair a corduroy suit with a simple oxford shirt and suede loafers for an effortless look that perfectly walks the line between casual and formal.

Layer with Flannels

Thick flannel shirts are to autumn what crisp white tees are to summer. We like them in heavier, coarser fabrics – made with dyed yarns, not printed, and are a bit more insulating. Layer them open as mid-layers between a thick cotton t-shirt and some outerwear. 

The key to shopping for flannels is to look for a Made-in-USA tag, as those are often a bit sturdier with old-school details such as cat-eye buttons, chin straps and chainstitch run-offs. Busy plaids sometimes hide snags and coffee stains until you get them into natural light, so inspect carefully. And when buying online, double-check measurements. The fit on these things can vary wildly, even within the same label. Flannel shirts don’t need to fit perfectly, but they should be in the ballpark. 

Tweeds

The tweed’s appeal is undeniably universal. When it comes to winter dressing, it’s hard to find someone who’s not enamored by its charms. Originally produced in Scotland, tweeds are smooth and tightly woven reminiscent of traditional checks. They carry the distinctive colors and patterns of Scottish estates such as bark, moss, and heather. They wear warmer than summer fabrics, making them fit exactly in the middle. These secondary shades complement nicely with a well chosen tie and square. Genuine Harris Tweed is harder to beat in its incomparably rich handle and substantial weight. Genuine Harris Tweed is a tweed cloth that is handwoven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, made and finished from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the same location. This definition, quality standards and protection of the Harris Tweed name are enshrined in the Harris Tweed Act 1993.

What is Labor Day?

Labor Day is always the first Monday in September and was the idea of Peter J. Maguire. Some more recent research says it may be his brother's Matthew's idea but it is not entirely certain. Peter was a labor union leader who in 1882 proposed a celebration honoring the American worker. The founders were looking for two things: a means of unifying union workers and a reduction in work time.

The organizers of the first Labor Day wanted to create an event that brought different types of workers together to meet each other and recognize their common interests. However, no government or company at that time recognized the first Monday in September as a day off. The issue was temporarily solved by declaring a one day strike in the city. All striking workers were then expected to march in a parade, eat and drink the rest of the day. The New York Tribune's reporter who covered the event felt the entire day was one long political barbecue, with “rather dull speeches.”

The date chosen was simply “convenient,” according to Maguire, because it was midway between Fourth of July and Thanksgiving. Although the day’s focus on organized labor has diminished over the years with the decline of manufacturing jobs and workers, the holiday has become a way to mark the end of the summer season and the start of the school year.

Faburiq recognizes the importance of this day for two reasons. Our small team consists of the small but skilled textile workforce in New England area; and our mission to create accessories that not only serve as complements to your wardrobe but with a "dress for success" style and attitude in mind. From the humble beginnings of the average manufacturing worker to the guy in the suit. Labor Day has come a long way and is something worth celebrating for.

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Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

Ref: The Conversation: "Have we forgotten the true meaning of Labor Day? It’s not about the end of summer" by Jay L. Zagorsky

Style Tips of Sir Roger Moore

 

Proportion is Key.

Wide legged pants? Make sure you have a wide lapel on your suit jacket. Slim cut pants? Slim fit jacket with a more subdued lapel. Having even proportions throughout your outfit is the key to looking slim and filled out.

 

Embrace a Bold Print.

Do yourself a favor next time you are out shopping and buy a print that speaks to you the most. Having a bold print is an immediate upgrade to your closet. Whether you pick plaid, stripes, polka dots or even houndstooth, you will be unique in a crowd.  Moore was never afraid to be bold.

Rocking that Bow Tie.

Often called the “warm weather neck wear”,  a bow tie adds a smidge of quirkiness to a formal look. Moore’s Bond is always ready to complete a mission or order a martini in his bow tie.

 

Bold Tuxedos.

One of the most famous photos of Moore is of him in his white tuxedo jacket. He pulls it off brilliantly all with an air of sophistication. Although menswear has come a long way in terms of color and print options, it still has room to grow. Channeling your inner Roger Moore doesn’t necessarily mean purchasing a white suit. Sky blue or mint are other bold options available.

With these four tips, you’ll be walking around in style in no time.

Author: Kayla-Marie Bienwald

Tieology - The Psychology Behind NeckTies

What are you trying to say when you wear that rectangular piece of silk? As one of the few expressions of creativity and personality allowed to men, a tie has quiet a bit of responsibility. It can convey an emotion, a mood, a situation, and above all the elegance of the wearer, since his choice of a tie is an expression of his inner self. True markers of style continue to include neckwear in their wardrobe.  Every man should have a strategic neckwear wardrobe. Neckwear is not part of a necessary uniform but more of a telling adjunct. A few well-chosen, quality ties - low-key and luxurious, rather than hyper-stylish, can make all the difference in the world. Simplicity of cut, quality construction and materials, and discretionary taste are the hallmarks of fine neckwear.

“Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formal wear.
– Luciano Barbera”

Since New York tie maker, Jesse Langsdorf, came up with essentially the method of making a modern tie 80 years ago, the only thing that has changed is why men wear ties. Ties are no longer viewed today as a sign of conformity or social imposition; ties these days are seen as simply ornamentation. Essentially purposeless and increasingly worn at one's own discretion, ties are now above all statements of the wearer's personality. These strips of silk, cotton or linen have become accessories laden with meaning.

A navy with white polka dots: a decidedly dressier but fun approach tells people that you're a really fun guy once your business suit comes off at night.

If your choice is a conservatively striped power tie, perhaps you want your professional, no-nonsense persona to shine through. It’s not a coincidence that many politicians wear red-colored ties with light shirts and darker suits. Red is the power tie because red always comes back to strength and passion.

In the last decade, a pink tie most often but not always signals a “solidarity with women".

Consider blue as the all-purpose tie hue and also the safest color to wear. Blue ties are always a good investment and it has a calming effect. The tie that looks smart with almost any suit is also a pristine approach to a navy blazer. Not forgetting patterned blue ties that tend to give off a classic professional feel and can be worn in a global business environment without sending the wrong message.

A silk foulard in a discreet geometric print is the classic tie to wear with a solid or striped business suit and striped dress shirt.

But perhaps a bow tie is more your speed, because you are a free-spirited nonconformist with an intellectual or creative bent. Or maybe not. That's the beauty of the tie. A man may be all of the different things his tie implies, or none of them. But you can't be a slob and wear a bow tie either. Bow tie wearers have to wear them like they mean it and perfecting the art of wearing bow ties says something  about them. If he chooses right, his tie will say what he wants it to.

But even though your tie may be speaking for you, it is typically women who are the ventriloquists. Almost 60 percent of ties being purchased are by women; many men are products of the fit-to-be-tied fashion statement.

So, regardless of your necktie preference, consider ties as an essential equipment in your wardrobe simply because as Harry Anderson puts it, "Neckties are the modern man's desire to dress in art".

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

Ref:  BBC Archives: The Psychology of Tie Colours by Alina Dizik; The Book of Ties by Francois Chaille; Tie Me Up, Tie Me Down by Jodi Balkan

Embracing Formality

Braces, referred to in the United States, as suspenders have existed in one form or another since the birth of trousers or pants. Braces are not something to be afraid of, nor are they to be thought of as antiquated or overly formal. When dressed appropriately, they offer a comfortable blend of function and form, modernity and versatility, helping you stay comfortable in your pants whilst allowing them to hang properly and drape cleanly throughout the day.

But, before all that, let’s begin at the beginning because there’s much more to braces than simply an alternative to the belt that holds up the pants.

The creation of the modern trousers, as we know it today, is attributed to George Bryan "Beau" Brummell (known as the 'Ultimate Man of Style' and his friendship with the Prince of Wales, the future King George IV) and his tailor, Jonathan Meyer.  This was in the early 1800s at his Conduit Street workshop in the London district of Mayfair. "Beau" Brummell is credited with introducing the modern men's suit, worn with a necktie, establishing it as fashion and as a staple in today's men's wardrobe. In order to create the stretched, slim look of Brummell’s trouser legs, the straps securing the hems needed to be countered by suitable supports at the waist. Brummell’s design incorporated a foot-strap to keep the trouser-legs taut and straight – a feature that still exists on the bottom half of British Guards and Cavalry dress uniforms.

Around 1820, Mr. Albert Thurston invented the perfect product to pair with the new trousers. He used leather loops to attach braces to buttons that were sewn onto trouser waistbands. The braces could then be easily transferred for use from one pair of trousers to another. Whilst the leather loops remain a feature of the majority of Albert Thurston braces produced to this day, the configuration of the brace-straps has changed over time. Albert Thurston still remains the premier choice for proper English-made braces today. All of Faburiq's leather loops used on our suspenders are made with English leather, inspired by the inventor himself.

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Initially thought of as ‘underwear’ to be worn exclusively beneath a waistcoat, it was distasteful to wear suspenders if a vest or another piece of clothing did not cover them. As recent as 1938, exposing them was against the law on Long Island. But by the turn of the twentieth century, suspenders were increasingly becoming an accessory to take notice of, a statement piece that enhanced one’s tailored look and a demonstration of one's knowledge of how to dress.

From a practical viewpoint, correctly fitted suspenders allow you to completely forget about slouching through the day and hitching your pants up. There is nothing less elegant than pants pulled-tight with a belt that seldom stays where you want them. Suspenders eradicate that problem, hanging pants elegantly and immovably from your shoulders. They allow for your pant waistband to be looser, therefore a little roomier than if you were to wear a belt. This is not only comfortable but allows for the pant to fall through the leg more naturally. In the same breath, they allow for one to wear pants with a slightly higher rise that sit atop, rather than across the hips for a classically elegant aesthetic. Suspenders come in either button-in or clip-on variants. Button-in are more traditional and grown up. Buttons are always supplied with button-in designs, such as Faburiq's suspenders.

Suspenders also add color and character to a tailored ensemble; try a simple navy suspender with grey flannels and a tweed jacket, or else wear a pair with subtle spots or stripes under a navy blazer with a denim shirt and chinos for an understated look. Generally speaking, the narrower suspenders feel less formal, hence a good place to start for smart-casual dress. For suiting, try the wider width suspenders and complement them with the colors in your tie or accessories. Whichever style, pattern or composition of suspenders you choose, they are more than worthy of your attention and experimentation this season. They will certainly make the perfect discussion or point of distinction. Embrace them and enjoy.

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

Ref: "Well Hung: The Ups and Downs of Trouser Braces"  Mason & Sons | Nov 2015

Exploring Arimatsu

Arimatsu village is one of Japan’s hidden treasures, whose history never seems too far from the past. The town is the birthplace and probably best known for its traditional textile craft, Shibori, used for kimono and various designer garments today. “The whole town is really beautiful. People here live and breath their Shibori craft,” explains Sebastian, whose textile affections inspired his trip. It’s like a living museum - people still live here, and the town is filled with contemporary designer boutiques and modern local bistro and cafes. You can also enjoy the scenery of the village’s serene Zen forest anytime of the day. 

Arimatsu (有松町 Arimatsu-chō) was a town located in Aichi Prefecture, Japan. Today, it is approximately three-and-a-half-hours by Shinkansen (新幹線) from Tokyo. It is now part of Nagoya, a town filled with Tokugawa and Edo treasures. Shibori, also known as “Japanese tie-dye”, is a form of resist dyeing in which fabric is folded, tied, twisted or wrapped to create patterns and various motifs. The variation of methodology and motifs it has created are given different names and each has symbolic significance. 

One of the main attractions to learn and experience Shibori in Arimatsu is the Shibori Kaikan Museum. The true treasure is on the second floor where you’ll see the Shibori Craftswomen from Arimatsu. “I was introduced to Okasan Aiko during my visit where she demonstrated the different Shibori techniques. She showed me the different processes of Shibori from Kanako (regular tie-dye), Kumo (wrapping), Nui (stitching), Arashi (pole wrapping and twisting), Itajime (shape resistant/clamping) and many more Shibori techniques. The Shibori collection displayed is breathtaking, most of them dyed with the natural and traditional dye – Indigo or Japanese Blue. Shibori fabric has an amazing texture. The tiny knots that are hand tied not only create a visual pattern, but also a raised texture. The tools and vintage technology varies within the different processes of Shibori. Workshops are held where various techniques are taught by the Master Shibori craftswomen,” explains Sebastian. 

"Shibori needs patience less than time and more than heart because it's a craft beyond words. Devote to such a craft only with love." Shibori Craftswomen of 有松町 Arimatsu-chō

As Master Aiko continued wrapping her Kumo Shibori, she talked about the Annual Shibori festival, a celebration of the Shibori art and the town itself, held the first weekend of June along the old Tokaido highway. The festival floats with performances of Dashi floats and Karakui mechanical puppet shows performed by Shibori Komachi and Fukuotoko (lucky men). Some of the old historical houses are open to public offering a peek into truly traditional homes.

Many old historical houses from the Edo period still line the Tokaido road. Shibori designer boutiques, cafes and serene local shrines could be found in the backyard of Arimatsu village. The vivid art of Shibori is truly a cultural experience beyond time and history, and today, placing its mark on contemporary fashion. Experience Shibori within Faburiq’s haberdasheries and shop the story!

*If you would like to know more about Kimono fabrics click here and if you would like to know more about Shibori fabrics click here.

Authors: Alexander Sebastianus and Aruña Chong Quiroga

A Classic Boston Wedding

The Couple: Alexander and Alexandra Ross

Location: Boston, Massachusetts, USA

Venue: The Boston Harbor Hotel

Photographer: Shane Godfrey Photography

Story: The bride wanted the groomsmen's accessories to match the bridesmaids' dresses. When she showed us the color hue of the dresses, it was a no brainer to pick from our selection of Indigo or more famously known as "Japan Blue" fabrics. It was a truly "blue-themed" wedding. The matriarchs from the bride and groom's families wore blue, with many family members adorning this classic and gorgeous color palette.

Groom's Pocket Square: White Maple Tree Pocket Square w/hand-rolled edges. Solid white kimono wedding silk and intricately woven into it's background are the "matsu" (pine tree), "sasa" (bamboo grass), "hagi" (japanese bush clover), "kaede" (maple leaf), "kiku" (chrysanthemum) and "ume" (Japanese plum).

Groomsmen's Pocket Squares: Kikko (Tortoise Shell) Indigo Pocket Square w/hand-rolled edges; Oshima Tsumugi Silk, Double Ikat Technique

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

CIRCUIT - MassArt Runway Show 2016

Massachusetts College of Art and Design showcases the work of Fashion Design students in its annual fashion show with designs from seniors, juniors and sophomores presented in a formal runway show. Now in it's third year, the goal is to provide a full-tuition scholarship to a deserving and exceptional Fashion Design student. This year, Faburiq is thrilled and honored to be involved in making the annual Pre-Fashion Show Party and runway show a tremendous success. The 2016 MassArt Fashion Show Party surpassed its goal and MassArt was able to award a full tuition scholarship to an exceptional and deserving Fashion Design student.

Founded in 1873, MassArt has a legacy of leadership as the only independent public college of art and design in the country and the nation’s first art school to grant a degree. Since 1907 MassArt’s Fashion Design Department has been devoted to the essence of educating fashion and textile designers with a unique message and compelling vision for the industry. The fashion we witnessed that evening exemplified artistic excellence, intellectual creativity and entrepreneurship. All the collections embodied a certain design viewpoint that was unique and visionary. Here are some of our favorite pieces of the night! 

From left to right: Designs by Naomi Fyhr, Zelda Flisiuk and Roshan Akbari (Class of 16)

By supporting an institution such as MassArt, we at Faburiq felt that it was a testament to the solid work of artists, designers and craftsmen the world over and that creative thinkers and makers are not only economic generators, their contributions to the creative economy continuously changes the world from past to the present.

Photo Credits: Massachusetts College of Art & Design and Kortenhaus Communications, Boston

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

How To Dress for the Kentucky Derby

This is by far one of the best illustrations for the Modern Derby Gentleman we have come across so far. We possess an unparalleled color palette here at Faburiq and to us the accessories make the outfit. Vibrant Kimono accessories against classic Derby tradition. It can't get better than this.

Starting with the pants, whether you are aiming for a smart or casual aesthetic, it should always be an eye-catcher as long as it pairs well with the right shirt and blazer. A great dress shirt in a complimentary color will go a long way. Don't shy away from gingham, striped or even a floral shirt to turn it up. Some gents even have monograms on all their shirts like my better half! The jacket is what brings everything together. If you want a polished look, a classic navy or seersucker blazer is always in style. If you want to have a little more fun, a nice chalk stripe or windowpane suit will certainly make heads turn. We recommend sporting the 3- button side vent for a more polished look but this is more of a personal preference.

Next is the tie, the little detail that counts. Most gentlemen wear a necktie, but a bow tie is always an appreciable option. If you never wear bows, try it out and you may like it. Watching the Derby wouldn't be the same without our bowties! 

For gents that rock pocket squares, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonizing or contrasting with your other accessories. If your tie has a pattern or print, then choose a color from that palette to bring your ensemble together through your pocket square. Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core color of your ensemble. Don’t be shy to bring out an accent color on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt, it's all in the details. Alternatively, if you want to make your pocket square the focal point of your look, you could opt to clash your pocket square with your tie and, of course, the rest of your outfit. With this, it really is a case of ‘the bolder the better’: experiment with vibrant colors and eclectic prints from our wide selection of Kimono Pocket Squares.

For shoes, the most important thing you need to know is that they should be worn sockless.

Top it all off with a fedora or bowler hat for that Kentucky Derby look. Men's Derby hats are generally solid in color and inspired by styles from the 1920s.

Now that you've tied on a bowtie with a bourbon in hand, be confident in your Derby outfit. No matter what you wear, it’s how you wear it Gentlemen!                                                                                                                                  

Seen below is one of our favorite Derby ensembles: A Green Windowpane Blazer Jacket paired with the Mocha Kame Bow Tie and Beige Hana Pocket Square. On the left is the Red and White Sashiko Bow Tie.

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Author: Aruña Quiroga

Tokyo Hand-Painted Yuzen

In Japan, craftsmanship has always been looked upon with great respect. Within the Kimono industry itself, there are a range of techniques and disciplines. One of our visits to heritage Kimono makers during our last trip to Japan was with the Ogura family of Ogura Some-gei, who keeps the tradition of Edo Yuzen living. In observing this family-run, father and son operation, their technique in Kimono crafts is derived from aspects that are "un-changed" or timeless; something that has been done the same way for many many years. But as with many small craft industries, very few craftsmen have been able to pass their skill to next generation. Fortunately, Ogura Teiyu, the father, was able to pass his knowledge and skills to his son, Takashi, which keeps the core of Japanese creation and craftsmanship culture alive. We have been extremely fortunate to have spent some time with them.

Yuzen (hand-painted patterns) originated in Kyoto in the late 17th century during the Edo period. It is regarded as the foremost representation of Japanese Kimono design. Today, Kyoto, Kaga (present-day Ishikawa Prefecture) and Tokyo are the three places renowned for Yuzen. Yuzen begin in Tokyo about one century after the art itself had already originated. At that time, Edo (present-day Tokyo) was the center of Samurai politics and the center of the nation's prosperity, after being transferred from Kyoto. Many dyers who worked for the feudal lords moved to "downtown Edo" by the rivers to continue their craftsmanship.

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There are numerous steps involved in the Yuzen process. Firstly, the fabric that is manufactured elsewhere, usually in Kyoto or Shiga Prefecture, is brought to Tokyo. It is temporarily sewn for fitting and lines for patterns are drawn on it as originally designed. It is then painted in blue ink made from the dayflower called "aobana". These lines will completely disappear when the fabric is washed later. These lines/outlines are then traced with a kind of glue substance made from rice or rubber, so that the dyes will not run into the other areas. Then, colors are placed on the patterns. This is the most important step of the entire process, in which consideration is given to coloring and coordinating the colors that are to be used, and the properties of the dyes.

After the pattern painting is completed, the whole blot of material is steamed which improves the color of the fabric and sets the dyed areas. The colored parts are then covered with the "glue substance", so that they are not damaged in the next step. During the next step, the background dye is evenly applied to the whole cloth with a big brush but the “glue substance” preserves the design.

After dyeing the background, the fabric is again steamed for about an hour, and then it is washed out. The "glue substance" is completely washed off this time. After the dyeing process is finished, gold and/or silver leaves are often attached to parts of the design and/or some parts of the product are embroided. This finishes off the product before being released for retail. In addition, when "kamon" which means family crest, should appear on the product, the product will go under the process of "monso-uwae”, the process in which the family crest is painted by hand on the finished item.

There is a movement amongst consumers that is becoming more drawn to handmade, hand crafted products. At Faburiq, we aim to satify that need by combining two traditional skills to create something extraordinary. Timeworn fabrics from Japan and classical tailoring from the USA; rejuvenated and living harmoniously as the modern man's accessory.

Shop Faburiq.

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Author: Aruña Quiroga

和柄: Wagara

Wagara literally means Japanese patterns or design. These patterns were created by combining elements of painting and Chinese calligraphy in the Heian Period (795-1185). To this day, there are patterns that are still being created for Wagara. It is a design found only in Japan and is very traditional.

There are ten common and basic Wagara designs. Seigaiha (青海波), which is a big wave of the blue ocean; Tatewaku (立涌); Kikkou (亀甲), which is the shell of a turtle, and is a common design representing the intellect and bliss throughout China and Korea; Kagome (籠目); Hishi (菱); Sankuzushi (三崩し); Ten (点); Shima (縞); Uroko (鱗), which is a mixture of equilateral or isosceles triangles; and Ichimatu (市松). Additional designs include Kacho-huugetu (花鳥風月) and Huujin-raijin (風神雷神). We decided to use the Seigaiha (青海波) pattern for Faburiq's packaging.

Today’s designers make new Wagara by mixing contemporary patterns with old ones. For example, patterns that resemble nature such as seasonal flowers, pine, bamboo, plum, cherry blossoms, running water, moon, waves, mountains, plants, and creatures like the butterfly, goldfish, crane, and rabbit, are used. There are also some patterns that originate from Sanskrit characters.

In the past, the Japanese wore kimono as a form of casual wear. But of late, they no longer wear the kimono, only for formal and special occasions. The kimono industry and makers begin to decline and to bring back it's appeal, they started making other products that incorporated traditional Japanese designs such as bags, pouches, and clothes. The perception of Wagara has since evolved and has notably improved. It was once considered to be old-fashioned but now it is considered unique and elegant. Faburiq strives to retain a lost art that originated from ancient traditions while keeping the need to create modern, wearable and classic designs.

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Kiku-no-hana or The Chrysanthemum Flower

If you haven't already noticed, the Chrysanthemum, or Kiku in Japanese, is a recurring flower on many of Faburiq's pieces. Why is this particular flower so prominent on Japanese fabrics? I want to share with you some of the symbolism behind this unique flower that makes up so many of our designs.

The Chrysanthemum is a symbol that represents longevity, endurance and integrity. It is the most celebrated of all Japanese fall-flowering plants. It was first introduced to Japan from China as medicine during the Nara period (710 - 793 AC), when the Japanese Royal Family became fascinated with the Chrysanthemum. Eventually it became the Imperial Family's Emblem in the Kamakura period (1192-1333). But it was only in 1869, in the Meiji period (1868-1912) that Kiku with 16 petals was officially adopted as the symbol of the Japanese royal family.

There are more than 150 seals or mon featuring this wonderful flower. The Imperial Seal of Japan is the most famous of them. The Imperial Seal of Japan feature 16 petals on the front and 16 petals on the back (only the tip of the petals can be seen on the back). The Japanese government uses the 16 petals seal for official documents such as passports. The Chrysanthemum was also used as symbol of the Throne of the Emperor of Japan. There is also the Supreme Order of the Chrysanthemum – the highest Japanese honor order awarded by the Emperor. We can also find the Chrysanthemum on 50 yen coins, kimono cloths, wallets, bags, and many other accessories in Japan. It is important to notice that white Chrysanthemum is used for funerals and graves in Japan and China. On the other hand, red Chrysanthemums are given to the people you love or, at least, are very fond of.  Therefore, be careful with the meaning of each color. 

Some of our most popular pieces that feature the Chrysanthemum flower are shown below. These pieces are made to be fun or formal but always evoking elegance and beauty.

Red Chrysanthemum Pocket Square

Orange Flower Pocket Square

Chrysanthemum and Diamond Pocket Square

White Chrysanthemum Pocket Square

Chrysanthemum and Cherry Blossom Pocket Square

Light Blue Chrysanthemum Pocket Square

Author: Aruña Quiroga

絞 : Shibori

The word Shibori comes from the Japanese verb root “shiboru” meaning, “to wring, squeeze, press”.

Shibori a traditional Japanese resist-dyeing technique that has been around longer than any other fabric dyeing method. It was most popular in the early Edo period when lower class people were forbidden from wearing silk. The pattern is made by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, compressing, dyeing, and then releasing the binding pressure to reveal the pattern. Each method that is used is done with harmony with the type of cloth to create beautiful surface designs. Commonly mistaken for tie-dye in the West, the original Shibori techniques were ancestral, handed down exclusively within Japanese artisan families. There are six major known Shibori techniques: Kanoko, Miura, Kumo, Nui, Arashi and Itajime. Faburiq's accessories are made from fabrics that utilize the Kanoko and Miura techniques.

Kanoko Shibori, the most popular variation of the Shibori technique and the closest to the Western Tie-Dye version, involves tying cloth to achieve the desired pattern. Each individual knot is hand-tied, creating small variations in the shapes, and is carefully released by the artisan one at a time. Most common are circular shapes achieved with this technique. Sometimes the circles are places in an irregular fashion to create an image, or more frequently, the fabric is folded into layers to create a repeating pattern. This is a time-consuming, painstaking process with beautiful, monochromatic results.

Miura is a technique that involves looping and binding. A hook and needle is used to pluck sections of the cloth and a thread is looped around each section twice, the released pattern resembles water ripples. The final pattern depends on how tightly you bind the fabric and where it is bound, making each pattern unique in itself. This is the easiest of all Shibori techniques and most commonly used.

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Wabi-sabi: Embracing the Worn and Asymmetrical

What if, instead of fighting imperfection, you welcomed it in your life?

Believe it or not, this is the foundation of a very old way of thinking. The Japanese concept of wabi-sabi means "impermanent, imperfect and incomplete." It derives from the Buddhist way of looking at the world, which has a foundation in nonattachment, and takes its cues from the natural world and authenticity, from the handmade and the worn.

Popularized in 15th century Japan, it is a reaction to excess and lavishness. As a designer, I think of it as the anti-internet, and a similar aesthetic is undercurrent in all types of design today. Currently, it's a reaction to the sleek perfection of technology, of the cookie-cutter house or car, the bland design of corporate logos and mass-produced retail goods.

Wabi-sabi is the Japanese idea of embracing the imperfect, celebrating the worn, the used or the cracked, both as a decorative and spiritual concept. In essence, it's the acceptance of the toll that life takes on us all. If we can learn to love the things that already exist, for all their chips and cracks, their imperfections, their crooked lines or tactile evidence of being made by someone's hands instead of a machine, from being made of natural materials that vary rather than perfect plastic, we wouldn't need to make new stuff, reducing our consumption, its concurrent energy use and inevitable waste while cutting our budgets. We might also be less stressed, and more attentive to details, which are the keys to mindfulness.

At Faburiq, we design knowing our fabrics have an implied history and evidence of humanity. We have an appreciation of the stories old things have, rather than the blankness that new things shine out into the world. We pride ourselves in giving these traditional fabrics a new life by crafting them into accessories and apparel with yet, another story to tell.

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Give Thanks, Be Thankful and Waste Nothing

Happy Thanksgiving from Faburiq!

Faburiq lives by the values of Mottainai - that the old can be made new and everything can be given life again. Faburiq's pieces are fabrics that have been saved and reused, so you can give them another history and chapter in it's life. Thank you to our customers and for giving us the opportunity to serve you.  Have a very Happy Thanksgiving 2014!

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Studio Visit: STIL Now!

When one thinks of a curated, creative lifestyle encompassing health, well-being and personal style, Betty Riaz embodies all of these.  Through her work as a yoga practitioner, her boutique at Stil Studio, and now teaming up with fine jewelry designer, Ana Katarina Vinkler-Petrovic, to curate Boston's newest pop-up store Stil Now, on Boston’s famed Newbury Street. Scouring the globe for unique, handpicked, sustainable and stylish items, Stil Now, with its eclectic mix of designers, is a blueprint for a balanced, international lifestyle. As dear friends, Betty invited me to share Faburiq’s international elegance with Stil Now, and I am honored to have Stil Now carry Faburiq pocket squares. 

As a huge follower of designers that Stil has previously carried, we're thrilled Stil Now has brought back some of it's old favorites such as Hoss, Nirva, Ottod'Ame and Escentric Molecules. For this holiday season, Stil Now is featuring Balkan designers, notably Ana-Katarina Jewelry, Portmanteau, Amna and Milansenic. A host of designers for men's accessories and home goods such as Beacon Hill Bow Tie Club and Miraggio Pillows are also being featured. The space is just as one would imagine - minimal, serene, foreign but homely, like a living space that has manifested from the streets of Pakistan to the clean cuts and coziness of Copenhagen.

If you are in the Boston area be sure to visit Stil Now on Newbury St this Holiday season, and thank you to Betty, Ana-Katarina and the Stil crew so much for carrying Faburiq!

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Holiday Gifting Solved with Shades of Blue

Pocket Squares are handy and stylish. Great to dress up any pocket - suit pocket, pant pocket, jean pocket, shirt pocket, even a ladies pocket....get one of these cool kasuri cotton blues to add to your stocking stuffers! Also available now at Stil Now on Newbury Street!

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Faburiq is now available at STIL NOW on Newbury Street!

Faburiq's pocket squares are now available at STIL NOW's pop up store this November and December 2014! Serving both Men's and Women's fashion needs, kick start your holiday shopping with some serious style and get a square at 304 Newbury Street in Boston!

Author: Aruña Quiroga

Inspired by Seigaiha 青海波

The new packaging for Faburiq is here! Seigaiha 青海波 literally means "blue wave of the sea". The double circle patterns resembling ocean waves around the label is not only found on fabrics but on packaging and pottery. This pattern has been used as a clothing motif in Japan for more than a thousand years and also used on ancient Chinese maps to illustrate seawater. The pattern originated from Middle Eastern culture and was introduced to Japan through China around the 11th century.

Just as blue ocean waves are the movement and the current of changing tides, such is life itself, always in motion and a journey. For me, the blue color conveys a sense of calmness and tranquility while the waves represents motion. An ideal combination whilst not always easy to accomplish, but is perfect as packaging for something truly special.

Author: Aruña Quiroga

銘仙絣: Meisen-Gasuri

Meisen silk is woven from pre-dyed silk threads (Ikat technique) and is the densest type of Ikat fabric in the world. Meisen is a moderately lightweight silk weave with a hard, smooth touch. The average person on the street in Japan will recognize meisen as what we call ikat. However, meisen may also be a solid color fabric, or woven entirely with undyed, unbleached yarns. So actually, meisen is the weave and kasuri is the dye method. Commencing production around 1868, Meisen silk became hugely popular in the 1920s/30s amongst fashionable Japanese women for everyday wear. Heavily influenced by European painters and art deco style, Meisen silk exhibits striking, bold and geometric prints that reflect the heyday of its production. Meisen ceased major production in the 1960s. 

To make meisen fabric, threads are first loosely woven and then dyed using stencils. The warp or the weft threads may be discarded at this point and new ones woven in to create the initial patterns. An alternative method is to stretch the threads as if they were woven, and then tightly bind the design areas before immersing the fabric in dye. The bound areas resist the dye, and when woven, this results in a design with rough edges because the threads are not evenly aligned. After the fabric is woven, additional hand painting, dying or embroidery is completed before assembling the kimono.

Today, Meisen is woven in the general region of Chichibu and Isezaki using yarns called tama-ito (a thick, seasonal raw silk) and noshi-ito (silk thrums) to weave a very strong, thick cloth used in every-day clothes. Centers of production are to be found in Kyoto, Isezaki, Chichibu, Ashikaga, Kiryuu, and Hachiouji. Although production of fabrics with Meisen style weaving has dwindled, what is left is a testament to the continuing dedication to craft and tradition alongside the rise of machine manufacturing.

Author: Aruña Quiroga