What is Labor Day?

Labor Day is always the first Monday in September and was the idea of Peter J. Maguire. Some more recent research says it may be his brother's Matthew's idea but it is not entirely certain. Peter was a labor union leader who in 1882 proposed a celebration honoring the American worker. The founders were looking for two things: a means of unifying union workers and a reduction in work time.

The organizers of the first Labor Day wanted to create an event that brought different types of workers together to meet each other and recognize their common interests. However, no government or company at that time recognized the first Monday in September as a day off. The issue was temporarily solved by declaring a one day strike in the city. All striking workers were then expected to march in a parade, eat and drink the rest of the day. The New York Tribune's reporter who covered the event felt the entire day was one long political barbecue, with “rather dull speeches.”

The date chosen was simply “convenient,” according to Maguire, because it was midway between Fourth of July and Thanksgiving. Although the day’s focus on organized labor has diminished over the years with the decline of manufacturing jobs and workers, the holiday has become a way to mark the end of the summer season and the start of the school year.

Faburiq recognizes the importance of this day for two reasons. Our small team consists of the small but skilled textile workforce in New England area; and our mission to create accessories that not only serve as complements to your wardrobe but with a "dress for success" style and attitude in mind. From the humble beginnings of the average manufacturing worker to the guy in the suit. Labor Day has come a long way and is something worth celebrating for.

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Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

Ref: The Conversation: "Have we forgotten the true meaning of Labor Day? It’s not about the end of summer" by Jay L. Zagorsky

Tieology - The Psychology Behind NeckTies

What are you trying to say when you wear that rectangular piece of silk? As one of the few expressions of creativity and personality allowed to men, a tie has quiet a bit of responsibility. It can convey an emotion, a mood, a situation, and above all the elegance of the wearer, since his choice of a tie is an expression of his inner self. True markers of style continue to include neckwear in their wardrobe.  Every man should have a strategic neckwear wardrobe. Neckwear is not part of a necessary uniform but more of a telling adjunct. A few well-chosen, quality ties - low-key and luxurious, rather than hyper-stylish, can make all the difference in the world. Simplicity of cut, quality construction and materials, and discretionary taste are the hallmarks of fine neckwear.

“Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formal wear.
– Luciano Barbera”

Since New York tie maker, Jesse Langsdorf, came up with essentially the method of making a modern tie 80 years ago, the only thing that has changed is why men wear ties. Ties are no longer viewed today as a sign of conformity or social imposition; ties these days are seen as simply ornamentation. Essentially purposeless and increasingly worn at one's own discretion, ties are now above all statements of the wearer's personality. These strips of silk, cotton or linen have become accessories laden with meaning.

A navy with white polka dots: a decidedly dressier but fun approach tells people that you're a really fun guy once your business suit comes off at night.

If your choice is a conservatively striped power tie, perhaps you want your professional, no-nonsense persona to shine through. It’s not a coincidence that many politicians wear red-colored ties with light shirts and darker suits. Red is the power tie because red always comes back to strength and passion.

In the last decade, a pink tie most often but not always signals a “solidarity with women".

Consider blue as the all-purpose tie hue and also the safest color to wear. Blue ties are always a good investment and it has a calming effect. The tie that looks smart with almost any suit is also a pristine approach to a navy blazer. Not forgetting patterned blue ties that tend to give off a classic professional feel and can be worn in a global business environment without sending the wrong message.

A silk foulard in a discreet geometric print is the classic tie to wear with a solid or striped business suit and striped dress shirt.

But perhaps a bow tie is more your speed, because you are a free-spirited nonconformist with an intellectual or creative bent. Or maybe not. That's the beauty of the tie. A man may be all of the different things his tie implies, or none of them. But you can't be a slob and wear a bow tie either. Bow tie wearers have to wear them like they mean it and perfecting the art of wearing bow ties says something  about them. If he chooses right, his tie will say what he wants it to.

But even though your tie may be speaking for you, it is typically women who are the ventriloquists. Almost 60 percent of ties being purchased are by women; many men are products of the fit-to-be-tied fashion statement.

So, regardless of your necktie preference, consider ties as an essential equipment in your wardrobe simply because as Harry Anderson puts it, "Neckties are the modern man's desire to dress in art".

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

Ref:  BBC Archives: The Psychology of Tie Colours by Alina Dizik; The Book of Ties by Francois Chaille; Tie Me Up, Tie Me Down by Jodi Balkan

Exploring Arimatsu

Arimatsu village is one of Japan’s hidden treasures, whose history never seems too far from the past. The town is the birthplace and probably best known for its traditional textile craft, Shibori, used for kimono and various designer garments today. “The whole town is really beautiful. People here live and breath their Shibori craft,” explains Sebastian, whose textile affections inspired his trip. It’s like a living museum - people still live here, and the town is filled with contemporary designer boutiques and modern local bistro and cafes. You can also enjoy the scenery of the village’s serene Zen forest anytime of the day. 

Arimatsu (有松町 Arimatsu-chō) was a town located in Aichi Prefecture, Japan. Today, it is approximately three-and-a-half-hours by Shinkansen (新幹線) from Tokyo. It is now part of Nagoya, a town filled with Tokugawa and Edo treasures. Shibori, also known as “Japanese tie-dye”, is a form of resist dyeing in which fabric is folded, tied, twisted or wrapped to create patterns and various motifs. The variation of methodology and motifs it has created are given different names and each has symbolic significance. 

One of the main attractions to learn and experience Shibori in Arimatsu is the Shibori Kaikan Museum. The true treasure is on the second floor where you’ll see the Shibori Craftswomen from Arimatsu. “I was introduced to Okasan Aiko during my visit where she demonstrated the different Shibori techniques. She showed me the different processes of Shibori from Kanako (regular tie-dye), Kumo (wrapping), Nui (stitching), Arashi (pole wrapping and twisting), Itajime (shape resistant/clamping) and many more Shibori techniques. The Shibori collection displayed is breathtaking, most of them dyed with the natural and traditional dye – Indigo or Japanese Blue. Shibori fabric has an amazing texture. The tiny knots that are hand tied not only create a visual pattern, but also a raised texture. The tools and vintage technology varies within the different processes of Shibori. Workshops are held where various techniques are taught by the Master Shibori craftswomen,” explains Sebastian. 

"Shibori needs patience less than time and more than heart because it's a craft beyond words. Devote to such a craft only with love." Shibori Craftswomen of 有松町 Arimatsu-chō

As Master Aiko continued wrapping her Kumo Shibori, she talked about the Annual Shibori festival, a celebration of the Shibori art and the town itself, held the first weekend of June along the old Tokaido highway. The festival floats with performances of Dashi floats and Karakui mechanical puppet shows performed by Shibori Komachi and Fukuotoko (lucky men). Some of the old historical houses are open to public offering a peek into truly traditional homes.

Many old historical houses from the Edo period still line the Tokaido road. Shibori designer boutiques, cafes and serene local shrines could be found in the backyard of Arimatsu village. The vivid art of Shibori is truly a cultural experience beyond time and history, and today, placing its mark on contemporary fashion. Experience Shibori within Faburiq’s haberdasheries and shop the story!

*If you would like to know more about Kimono fabrics click here and if you would like to know more about Shibori fabrics click here.

Authors: Alexander Sebastianus and Aruña Chong Quiroga

西陣織: Nishijin Weave - A Japanese Traditional Weave

Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. This year, our team was fortunate enough to visit the Nishijin district of Kyoto and acquired a thorough understanding of the technique and origin of the Nishijin weave. We are very excited to begin including this lavish fabric in our upcoming collections.

Nishijin is a district in Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Japan, and (by extension) a traditional textile produced there and famous for Nishijin weaving, more narrowly referred to as Nishijin-ori (Nishijin fabric). Nishijin is Kyoto’s traditional textile center, the source of all those dazzling kimono fabrics and obi (kimono sashes) that you see being paraded about town. Nishijin produces the most sophisticated and lavish Obi you will find in Japan.

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                                       A stunning Geisha's Obi in Kyoto.

The beautiful fabrics woven in the Nishijin district are seen as a symbol of Kyoto and developed over 1,000 years alongside Kyoto's history as the former capital of Japan. Nishijin-ori‘s origins are from an ancient Japanese family, the powerful Hata clan, who immigrated to Kyoto from China around the 5th-6th century. Settling in the Uzumasa district of west Kyoto, they introduced silkworms and the manufacture of silk textiles to the local people. By the 8th century, the royal court had created an official branch to supervise the textile artists and their production. In other words, these were state-owned textile operations. 

In the 15th century, Kyoto suffered a long period of civil war, the Onin War, between the East and the West, and many artisans fled Kyoto to places such as the town of Sakai, south of Osaka. When the conflict finally ended, the weavers returned to Kyoto to resume their craft. One group of artisans settled on the site where the western army had been camped during the war. This is the origin of the name 'Nishijin,' which means west position. Nishijin’s literal translation is the West fort. Since then, the name has been used for the method of weaving to create designs and patterns using dyed threads in Kyoto.

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Supported by the patronage of both the Imperial court and great samurai lords, the weavers continued to adopt new technology. By the early Edo Period (1603 to 1867), there were some 7,000 looms crammed into an area of 1.6 square kilometers. A combination of disastrous harvests at the end of the 18th century with Japan's capital move from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1869, Nishijin weaving seemed threatened with extinction. But the Nishijin weavers showed an amazing resilience and spirit in preserving their craft. Observers were sent to Europe to study the textile industry there, and advanced Western weaving technology and equipment were introduced from France and Austria, such as the jacquard loom and the flying shuttle. By the 1890's, only 20 years after the shift of the capital, the Nishijin weavers had fully adapted modern technology to their ancient art. By adopting modern technology with their age-old craft, the Nishijin weavers were able to create a stable business in inexpensive machine-woven fabrics for everyday use that supported the production of the elaborate and luxurious hand-woven fabrics that are the purest expression of the Nishijin style.

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                                                                                                            Many Obis.

Nishijin Obi comes in many colors, including gold, and it is glamorously thick and rich, not to mention quite heavy as well. Nishijin Obi is rather expensive items, but one is enough to last for a lifetime. Their quality and craftsmanship are remarkable and orders from famous couture designers around the world are not uncommon. The Nishijin style of weaving uses yarn dyeing, in which yarns of various colors are woven to make patterns. This technique is both time-consuming and labor intensive compared to other techniques, but it is indispensable for creating the elaborate and beautiful hand-woven kimono fabric.

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                    Contemporary designs utilizing the Nishijin Weave is popular amongst couture designers.

Today, the clacking of looms can be heard all around the Nishijin area. The vitality of this district is a testament to the pride and dedication of Nishijin weavers through the ages and the important place that Nishijin occupies in the hearts of Kyoto people.

Author: Aruña Chong Quiroga

How To Dress for the Kentucky Derby

This is by far one of the best illustrations for the Modern Derby Gentleman we have come across so far. We possess an unparalleled color palette here at Faburiq and to us the accessories make the outfit. Vibrant Kimono accessories against classic Derby tradition. It can't get better than this.

Starting with the pants, whether you are aiming for a smart or casual aesthetic, it should always be an eye-catcher as long as it pairs well with the right shirt and blazer. A great dress shirt in a complimentary color will go a long way. Don't shy away from gingham, striped or even a floral shirt to turn it up. Some gents even have monograms on all their shirts like my better half! The jacket is what brings everything together. If you want a polished look, a classic navy or seersucker blazer is always in style. If you want to have a little more fun, a nice chalk stripe or windowpane suit will certainly make heads turn. We recommend sporting the 3- button side vent for a more polished look but this is more of a personal preference.

Next is the tie, the little detail that counts. Most gentlemen wear a necktie, but a bow tie is always an appreciable option. If you never wear bows, try it out and you may like it. Watching the Derby wouldn't be the same without our bowties! 

For gents that rock pocket squares, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonizing or contrasting with your other accessories. If your tie has a pattern or print, then choose a color from that palette to bring your ensemble together through your pocket square. Equally, you could choose a pocket square that is a shade lighter or darker than the core color of your ensemble. Don’t be shy to bring out an accent color on a subtle pinstripe or checked shirt, it's all in the details. Alternatively, if you want to make your pocket square the focal point of your look, you could opt to clash your pocket square with your tie and, of course, the rest of your outfit. With this, it really is a case of ‘the bolder the better’: experiment with vibrant colors and eclectic prints from our wide selection of Kimono Pocket Squares.

For shoes, the most important thing you need to know is that they should be worn sockless.

Top it all off with a fedora or bowler hat for that Kentucky Derby look. Men's Derby hats are generally solid in color and inspired by styles from the 1920s.

Now that you've tied on a bowtie with a bourbon in hand, be confident in your Derby outfit. No matter what you wear, it’s how you wear it Gentlemen!                                                                                                                                  

Seen below is one of our favorite Derby ensembles: A Green Windowpane Blazer Jacket paired with the Mocha Kame Bow Tie and Beige Hana Pocket Square. On the left is the Red and White Sashiko Bow Tie.

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Author: Aruña Quiroga