Exploring Arimatsu

Arimatsu village is one of Japan’s hidden treasures, whose history never seems too far from the past. The town is the birthplace and probably best known for its traditional textile craft, Shibori, used for kimono and various designer garments today. “The whole town is really beautiful. People here live and breath their Shibori craft,” explains Sebastian, whose textile affections inspired his trip. It’s like a living museum - people still live here, and the town is filled with contemporary designer boutiques and modern local bistro and cafes. You can also enjoy the scenery of the village’s serene Zen forest anytime of the day. 

Arimatsu (有松町 Arimatsu-chō) was a town located in Aichi Prefecture, Japan. Today, it is approximately three-and-a-half-hours by Shinkansen (新幹線) from Tokyo. It is now part of Nagoya, a town filled with Tokugawa and Edo treasures. Shibori, also known as “Japanese tie-dye”, is a form of resist dyeing in which fabric is folded, tied, twisted or wrapped to create patterns and various motifs. The variation of methodology and motifs it has created are given different names and each has symbolic significance. 

One of the main attractions to learn and experience Shibori in Arimatsu is the Shibori Kaikan Museum. The true treasure is on the second floor where you’ll see the Shibori Craftswomen from Arimatsu. “I was introduced to Okasan Aiko during my visit where she demonstrated the different Shibori techniques. She showed me the different processes of Shibori from Kanako (regular tie-dye), Kumo (wrapping), Nui (stitching), Arashi (pole wrapping and twisting), Itajime (shape resistant/clamping) and many more Shibori techniques. The Shibori collection displayed is breathtaking, most of them dyed with the natural and traditional dye – Indigo or Japanese Blue. Shibori fabric has an amazing texture. The tiny knots that are hand tied not only create a visual pattern, but also a raised texture. The tools and vintage technology varies within the different processes of Shibori. Workshops are held where various techniques are taught by the Master Shibori craftswomen,” explains Sebastian. 

"Shibori needs patience less than time and more than heart because it's a craft beyond words. Devote to such a craft only with love." Shibori Craftswomen of 有松町 Arimatsu-chō

As Master Aiko continued wrapping her Kumo Shibori, she talked about the Annual Shibori festival, a celebration of the Shibori art and the town itself, held the first weekend of June along the old Tokaido highway. The festival floats with performances of Dashi floats and Karakui mechanical puppet shows performed by Shibori Komachi and Fukuotoko (lucky men). Some of the old historical houses are open to public offering a peek into truly traditional homes.

Many old historical houses from the Edo period still line the Tokaido road. Shibori designer boutiques, cafes and serene local shrines could be found in the backyard of Arimatsu village. The vivid art of Shibori is truly a cultural experience beyond time and history, and today, placing its mark on contemporary fashion. Experience Shibori within Faburiq’s haberdasheries and shop the story!

*If you would like to know more about Kimono fabrics click here and if you would like to know more about Shibori fabrics click here.

Authors: Alexander Sebastianus and Aruña Chong Quiroga

Kyoto's Yuzen Tradition

Kyoto is the traditional industrial and textile hub of Japan. Here, most of Japan's kimonos and obis are woven, dyed and embroidered. In Kyoto, you can see kimonos as part of daily life, as a fashion statement and as an extricable part of the culture, from the performing arts to the myriad ceremonies to local customs. When we visited this city last, we were able to experience the tradition of Kyoto Yuzen or Kyo-Yuzen.

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Kyo-Yuzen is applied in two styles: Tegaki Yuzen (hand-painted yuzen) and Kata Yuzen (stencil-dyed yuzen). A fan painter in Kyoto named Yuzensai Miyazaki invented the yuzen hand-painted techniques in the Edo period around 1700. With the popularity of his fans, he began to receive commissions from aristocrats to paint kimono fabrics. Yuzensai Miyazaki developed the process to create high quality, dyed fabric whose art would not be ruined by rain, humidity, sweat, sunlight and so on, yet retained the artistic and nuanced qualities of hand painted artwork. Painted yuzen uses a rice-paste resist (a barrier that blocks certain parts of the cloth from being dyed). Learn more about Tokyo Hand-Painted Yuzen. 

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Katazome or stencil dyeing is a dyeing method that uses a stencil to create repeated patterns, either using dye paste or a resist paste. The stencil is usually made of a stiff type of paper infused with persimmon juice, and is washed and reused until it falls apart. Edo Komon and Kata Yuzen are types of Katazome stencil dyeing methods. Kata Yuzen techniques were developed by Jisuke Hirose in Kyoto around 1880. With combinations of stencil, brush and resist techniques, the dye craftsmen created fabric that is its own art form. The characteristic point of Kyo-Yuzen dyeing is to dye complicated patterns with many colors and tonal gradation. And, of course with the dyeing process, fabric can be produced in larger quantity than by just hand painting.

After the fabric is dyed it is dried, steamed, washed and dried. The steaming process sets the yuzen dye. Without this labor-intensive process, the product cannot be called yuzen. The color transmission is incredible, resulting in fabrics with impressive and deep colors. The fabric below shows one of our Yuzen kimono patterns - the Indigo Kiku - made into a pocket square.

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In some ways, kimonos are a centuries-old version of ethical luxury. You can wear them for decades, even if your body shape changes. When they become used, you can make them into a futon, cushion or any creative application. They cycle through seasons, not trends. In that regard alone, the price-performance of kimonos is actually quite high.

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Author: Aruña Quiroga

Tokyo Hand-Painted Yuzen

In Japan, craftsmanship has always been looked upon with great respect. Within the Kimono industry itself, there are a range of techniques and disciplines. One of our visits to heritage Kimono makers during our last trip to Japan was with the Ogura family of Ogura Some-gei, who keeps the tradition of Edo Yuzen living. In observing this family-run, father and son operation, their technique in Kimono crafts is derived from aspects that are "un-changed" or timeless; something that has been done the same way for many many years. But as with many small craft industries, very few craftsmen have been able to pass their skill to next generation. Fortunately, Ogura Teiyu, the father, was able to pass his knowledge and skills to his son, Takashi, which keeps the core of Japanese creation and craftsmanship culture alive. We have been extremely fortunate to have spent some time with them.

Yuzen (hand-painted patterns) originated in Kyoto in the late 17th century during the Edo period. It is regarded as the foremost representation of Japanese Kimono design. Today, Kyoto, Kaga (present-day Ishikawa Prefecture) and Tokyo are the three places renowned for Yuzen. Yuzen begin in Tokyo about one century after the art itself had already originated. At that time, Edo (present-day Tokyo) was the center of Samurai politics and the center of the nation's prosperity, after being transferred from Kyoto. Many dyers who worked for the feudal lords moved to "downtown Edo" by the rivers to continue their craftsmanship.

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There are numerous steps involved in the Yuzen process. Firstly, the fabric that is manufactured elsewhere, usually in Kyoto or Shiga Prefecture, is brought to Tokyo. It is temporarily sewn for fitting and lines for patterns are drawn on it as originally designed. It is then painted in blue ink made from the dayflower called "aobana". These lines will completely disappear when the fabric is washed later. These lines/outlines are then traced with a kind of glue substance made from rice or rubber, so that the dyes will not run into the other areas. Then, colors are placed on the patterns. This is the most important step of the entire process, in which consideration is given to coloring and coordinating the colors that are to be used, and the properties of the dyes.

After the pattern painting is completed, the whole blot of material is steamed which improves the color of the fabric and sets the dyed areas. The colored parts are then covered with the "glue substance", so that they are not damaged in the next step. During the next step, the background dye is evenly applied to the whole cloth with a big brush but the “glue substance” preserves the design.

After dyeing the background, the fabric is again steamed for about an hour, and then it is washed out. The "glue substance" is completely washed off this time. After the dyeing process is finished, gold and/or silver leaves are often attached to parts of the design and/or some parts of the product are embroided. This finishes off the product before being released for retail. In addition, when "kamon" which means family crest, should appear on the product, the product will go under the process of "monso-uwae”, the process in which the family crest is painted by hand on the finished item.

There is a movement amongst consumers that is becoming more drawn to handmade, hand crafted products. At Faburiq, we aim to satify that need by combining two traditional skills to create something extraordinary. Timeworn fabrics from Japan and classical tailoring from the USA; rejuvenated and living harmoniously as the modern man's accessory.

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Author: Aruña Quiroga

和柄: Wagara

Wagara literally means Japanese patterns or design. These patterns were created by combining elements of painting and Chinese calligraphy in the Heian Period (795-1185). To this day, there are patterns that are still being created for Wagara. It is a design found only in Japan and is very traditional.

There are ten common and basic Wagara designs. Seigaiha (青海波), which is a big wave of the blue ocean; Tatewaku (立涌); Kikkou (亀甲), which is the shell of a turtle, and is a common design representing the intellect and bliss throughout China and Korea; Kagome (籠目); Hishi (菱); Sankuzushi (三崩し); Ten (点); Shima (縞); Uroko (鱗), which is a mixture of equilateral or isosceles triangles; and Ichimatu (市松). Additional designs include Kacho-huugetu (花鳥風月) and Huujin-raijin (風神雷神). We decided to use the Seigaiha (青海波) pattern for Faburiq's packaging.

Today’s designers make new Wagara by mixing contemporary patterns with old ones. For example, patterns that resemble nature such as seasonal flowers, pine, bamboo, plum, cherry blossoms, running water, moon, waves, mountains, plants, and creatures like the butterfly, goldfish, crane, and rabbit, are used. There are also some patterns that originate from Sanskrit characters.

In the past, the Japanese wore kimono as a form of casual wear. But of late, they no longer wear the kimono, only for formal and special occasions. The kimono industry and makers begin to decline and to bring back it's appeal, they started making other products that incorporated traditional Japanese designs such as bags, pouches, and clothes. The perception of Wagara has since evolved and has notably improved. It was once considered to be old-fashioned but now it is considered unique and elegant. Faburiq strives to retain a lost art that originated from ancient traditions while keeping the need to create modern, wearable and classic designs.

Author: Aruña Quiroga